Mulching

Mulch Types & Selection

Hardwood mulch is the default — it decomposes slowly, enriches soil, and comes in natural brown, black-dyed, or red-dyed options. Cedar costs more but resists insects naturally, making it ideal near structures. Pine bark nuggets work well for acid-loving plants like blueberries and rhododendrons but need replenishing more often. Rubber mulch (recycled tires) never decomposes and suits playgrounds, but adds zero nutrients. Stone and gravel are permanent, drain well, and work for xeriscaping — always lay landscape fabric underneath. Cocoa hull mulch looks great and smells like chocolate, but it's toxic to dogs — confirm with the client before ordering.

Mulch Types Comparison

Depth Standards & Application

Apply 2–3 inches of mulch across most landscape beds. Never exceed 4 inches total — too thick suffocates roots and traps excess moisture. Keep mulch 3 inches away from tree trunks to prevent trunk rot and pest harboring (no "mulch volcanoes"). Pull it 1–2 inches back from shrub and perennial bases for air circulation. When refreshing existing beds, rake old mulch first to break up matting, then measure total depth including the old layer — add only enough to reach 2–3 inches total. Install on weed-free, moist soil after spring planting is complete for best results — in northern Minnesota, this is typically mid-May through June.

Calculating Yardage & Bed Preparation

Use this formula: Length (ft) × Width (ft) × Depth (in) ÷ 324 = cubic yards needed. One cubic yard covers roughly 162 sq ft at 2 inches deep, or 108 sq ft at 3 inches. Add 5–10% overage for irregular bed shapes and settling. Before mulch delivery, remove existing weeds by hand or with approved herbicide at least 5–7 days prior. Edge beds cleanly with a bed edger or flat spade. Use landscape fabric under stone mulch installations, but skip it under organic mulches — fabric blocks the soil enrichment that makes organic mulch worth using.