Mowing Operations

Prep — Phase Overview

Prep is what makes the day actually go. A truck that rolls out at 7 AM with a flat trailer tire, half-charged batteries, dull blades, and an empty fuel can has already lost an hour. Walk every Prep section below before you leave the shop. Each machine has a dedicated profile page with full specs — see the Equipment Overview page or the sidebar under Lawn.

Prep — Batteries

Cordless tools die the moment you need them. Confirm power before loading.

• Every cordless tool running today has a fully charged primary pack
• A charged spare pack for each tool is loaded on the truck
• Cold weather (below ~40 °F): packs ride in the cab, never in the bed
• Pull any pack already finished off the charger — never leave packs cooking overnight
• Long-term storage (>2 weeks): packs stored at 40–80% charge in a heated area

Prep — Mowers

Walk each machine you're taking out. Check it cold — don't trust yesterday. Full specs for each mower are on the individual profile pages (Gravely Pro-Turn 160, Cub Cadet XT2, Toro TimeMaster 30").

• Tire pressures match spec (see individual machine profile)
• Engine oil at the full mark; correct grade
• Fuel topped off with the RIGHT fuel — premium 91+ for all small engines, non-ethanol on the Toro
• Blades sharp, balanced, no cracks or bends
• Deck underside scraped clean from yesterday
• All guards, shrouds, and discharge chutes in place
• Grease points look greased — not dry, gritty, or leaking (see machine profile for grease-point intervals); flag anything off for tonight's shop list, don't grease on the driveway
• Safety interlocks tested: PTO, seat switch, parking brake; BBC bail on the Toro; ROPS up + seatbelt on the Gravely

Prep — Trailer & Truck

If the truck doesn't get there, the day doesn't happen. Walk it.

• All tires (including the spare) at correct pressure; no visible damage
• All lights working — running, brake, turn, trailer connection
• Hitch pin in place, safety chains crossed and hooked
• Brake controller responsive (2500 HD)
• Lift gate cycles fully up and down without binding (2500 HD)
• Ramps stowed and pinned (NPR)
• Fuel above 1/2 tank

Prep — Fuel & Supplies

Stock the truck before you roll. Running back to the shop mid-day kills the route.

• Gas can: full, premium 91+, labeled, under 30 days old or stabilized
• Mix can: full, labeled "MIX 50:1 — PREMIUM" with date, under 30 days old
• Diesel can: full and labeled (NPR only)
• String trimmer spools full with correct gauge; spare spool on the truck
• PPE on board: safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves; hi-vis if roadside; chaps + face shield if brush-cutter is going out
• Today's job sheet / route printed or loaded on the phone

Prep — Loading

Right machine on the right truck. Strap it like you're driving the highway, because you are.

• Gravely + Toro load on the NPR ramps
• Cub Cadet rides the 2500 HD lift gate (confirm weight under gate limit)
• Minimum 4 straps per machine, run over solid frame only — never over hydro release rods, fuel lines, or plastic shrouds
• Re-check every strap after the first stop OR the first 50 miles

Work — Phase Overview

On-property work runs in five steps in this order: walk the property for hazards, set heights, mow in the right pattern, handle wet/dry conditions and in-field blade issues, then finish the property before you load up.

Work — Choosing the Right Mower

Pick the machine before you unload. The wrong mower on the wrong property costs you time, risks the turf, and can get a rider stuck or tipped. Use the table below to make the call at the curb.

Mower Selection Guide

Work — Property Walk & Hazard Check

Before any blade spins, walk the lawn. Anything you miss becomes a projectile or a torn-up blade.

• Remove sticks, rocks, toys, dog bones, hoses, sprinkler caps, loose mulch on turf
• Note irrigation head locations and invisible-fence wires
• Note septic risers, low drainage covers, garden ornaments, pet ties
• Confirm which gates need to stay closed when you leave
• Confirm mowing direction is different from last visit (alternation rule)

Work — Mowing Heights by Grass Type

Never remove more than one-third of the blade in a single pass — the one-third rule is non-negotiable. In our Zone 3b–4a climate, every lawn is cool-season grass. Use the table below to set the deck.

• Raise the deck 1/2 in during drought stress
• Drop the deck slightly on the final fall mow to reduce snow mold risk
• New seed: let it hit 4 in before the first mow, then cut to 3 in

Mowing Heights by Grass Type

Work — Patterns & Techniques

Alternate direction every visit. Mow perimeter first, then straight lines through the interior with 2–3 in overlap.

• Visit 1: north-south. Visit 2: east-west. Visit 3: diagonal. Then repeat.
• Two perimeter passes before any interior lines
• Overlap each pass by 2–3 in to eliminate mohawk strips
• Obstacles (trees, posts, signs): trimmer pre-cuts an oval ahead of the mower; mower sweeps the arc — never spin the mower on turf
• Slopes: walk-behinds run across the face, riding mowers run up and down
• Use Y-turns or three-point turns at the end of every pass — never tight zero-turn pivots on turf
• Discharge clippings AWAY from beds, walks, drives, and roads

Work — Discharge Control

The discharge chute is a weapon if you aim it wrong. A mower blade spinning at full RPM turns a rock, a screw, or a stick into a projectile that can shatter a window, dent a car panel, or injure a bystander. The operator is fully responsible for managing their field of fire — every pass, every property.

The core rule: the discharge side always faces away from streets, sidewalks, driveways, garden beds, vehicles, the structure, and the property line wherever possible. Plan your pattern before you engage the blades, not after.

The 2–3 pass technique keeps you compliant throughout the job. Start with the discharge facing away from any hard surface or sensitive area. After 2–3 passes a buffer strip of cut lawn exists between the deck and the hazard. Once that buffer is established you can safely turn back — the clippings now land on cut turf, not pavement or a neighbor's driveway.

• Discharge side faces away from streets, sidewalks, driveways, garden beds, parked vehicles, the house/structure, and the property line on every pass
• 2–3 pass buffer rule: start discharge-away from any hard surface; after 2–3 passes a cut-lawn buffer exists and you can reverse direction
• Extended no-discharge zones: garden beds and landscaping, parked vehicles, the house or any structure, neighboring property — if you cannot avoid discharging toward these, stop and re-approach from a different angle
• People always trump the buffer rule: stop the blades immediately if a pedestrian, bystander, child, or dog enters the throw zone — do not rely on distance alone
• Liability framing: a rock sent into a window or car panel is a damage claim; a rock sent toward a person is a safety incident — the operator owns both

Work — Wet / Dry Conditions & In-Field Blade Care

Conditions change cut quality and blade life. Adjust on the fly.

• Wet turf: raise the deck 1/2 in, slow ground speed, scrape underside more often
• Dry turf: standard height and speed; mulch clippings back into the lawn
• Never mow frozen or soaking-wet grass — wait until dew dries
• Inspect blades daily for nicks, bends, or cracks — cracked blades are out, no exceptions
• If cuts go from clean to torn mid-job, the blade is done — swap to spares on the truck or note it for tonight's Clean

Work — Property Finish

Don't load until the property looks done from the street.

• Blow every hard surface clean — driveways, walks, patios, roads — back into the lawn or beds, never onto pavement
• Final walk: look for missed strips, scalped spots, or torn turf at obstacles
• Close every gate you opened
• After photo if the route or service agreement calls for one
• Report any turf, property, or equipment issue to the supervisor BEFORE leaving the property — not end of day

Clean — Phase Overview

Clean is the phase most crews short-change. Skipping it doesn't save time — it just delays tomorrow's first job. Run the full Clean before you clock out. Every day.

Clean — Decks & Blades

Tomorrow's cut quality is decided tonight.

• Scrape the underside of every mower deck used today
• Wash the deck if heavily caked or coming off a wet job; let it dry before storing
• Pull and inspect blades on every machine that mowed today
• Sharpen any blade that's dull, nicked, or made tear-marks (every 20–25 run hours minimum; sooner in sandy soil)
• Balance every blade after sharpening — unbalanced blades destroy spindle bearings
• Replace any blade that's bent, cracked, or worn past the discard line
• Toro timed blades: replace BOTH together, never one at a time

Clean — Fuel

Tank everything tonight so the truck rolls full tomorrow.

• Top off mower fuel tanks: premium 91+ (non-ethanol on the Toro)
• Top off trimmers and blowers
• Refill, re-label, and re-date the mix can if you mixed fresh today
• Refill gas and diesel cans on the truck
• Stabilizer added to any fuel that will sit more than 2 weeks

Clean — Batteries

Charge tonight, pull off the charger when full.

• Every used cordless pack on the charger before you leave
• Pull any pack already at full off the charger — don't let packs cook overnight in a heated shop
• Long-term storage (>2 weeks): packs at 40–80% charge
• Cold weather: store packs in a heated area, never in the truck bed

Clean — Machine Walk

A 60-second walk per machine catches problems before tomorrow.

• New oil leaks or hydraulic weeps (especially the Gravely)
• Broken plastic, missing hardware, loose fasteners
• Tire pressures — pump up anything below spec
• Engine oil level — top off if low (correct grade per machine profile)
• Tag out anything not safe for tomorrow with a written note for the shop

Clean — Truck, Trailer & Log

Last steps before you clock out.

• Blow out the truck bed; pick up loose strap tails and trash
• Restock supplies used today: line spools, oil bottles, rags, PPE
• Lift gate fully stowed and latched (2500 HD)
• Ramps stowed and pinned (NPR)
• Truck fuel above 1/2 tank for tomorrow
• Log today's services in the job tracking app
• Log any equipment hours that hit a service interval
• Confirm tomorrow's job sheet / route is loaded before you clock out

Gravely Zero-Turn — Pre-Start Safety Check

Before you touch the key, run through this safety check. Every step exists because a skipped one has hurt someone. It takes 60 seconds and it's non-negotiable.

• Sit fully in the seat and fasten the seatbelt — the seat-switch interlock will not allow starting if weight is not sensed
• ROPS (roll bar) must be fully upright and latched before operating on any slope
• Both control arms must be pushed outward to the open/parked position — the machine will not start if the arms are in the operating (closed) position
• Confirm the parking brake is fully engaged
• Confirm the PTO switch is OFF — blades must be disengaged before starting
• Look under and around the machine for bystanders, pets, tools, or debris

Gravely Zero-Turn — Starting the Engine

The Gravely Pro-Turn 160 uses a Kawasaki engine that wants a proper choke/throttle sequence, especially when cold. Rushing the start or over-choking are the two most common new-operator mistakes.

• Set the choke lever to 3/4 to full closed (full closed on a cold engine below 50 °F, 3/4 on a warm or mild-weather start)
• Set the throttle to the 1/4 to 1/2 position — do not crank at full throttle
• Turn the key to START and hold for up to 5 seconds; release immediately when the engine fires — do not keep cranking after the engine starts
• Let the engine idle for 30–60 seconds; do not rev it immediately
• Gradually reduce the choke back toward open as the engine warms up and smooths out — if it stumbles, move the choke back slightly and wait another 15 seconds
• Once running smoothly with choke fully open, bring the throttle above 3/4 before engaging the drive or PTO
• If the engine does not fire in two attempts, wait 30 seconds before trying again — repeated cranking floods the engine

Gravely Zero-Turn — Moving & Steering

Zero-turn steering is all in the two lap bars. It feels counterintuitive at first. Go slow, practice in an open area, and get the motion into muscle memory before you take it onto a client's lawn.

• Pull both lap bars inward to the closed (operating) position — the machine will not move until both arms are brought in
• To go straight: push both arms forward evenly at the same rate and distance
• To turn gradually: push one arm slightly farther forward than the other — the machine arcs toward the lagging arm
• To turn sharper: push one arm forward while keeping the other neutral, or pull one arm back slightly while pushing the other forward
• To spin in place (zero-turn pivot): push one arm fully forward and pull the other fully back — use this ONLY on pavement or when absolutely necessary; never spin on turf because it tears the grass
• Always come to a stop before reversing direction — do not jerk the arms from full forward to full reverse in one motion
• On slopes, always travel up and down (not across the face) and slow down well before the crest

Gravely Zero-Turn — Mowing

With the machine moving and the area clear, engage the blades and focus on clean, consistent passes. Efficiency comes from planning your pattern before you start — not from going fast.

• Engage the PTO (blade) switch only after the throttle is above 3/4 and the machine is clear of people and obstacles
• Run two perimeter passes around the lawn first to give yourself a clean turning lane at the edges
• Mow straight interior lines with 2–3 in of overlap on each pass to eliminate uncut strips
• Maintain a consistent ground speed — too fast leaves uncut streaks; too slow can cause clumping and deck clogging in thick or wet grass
• At the end of each row, slow down, come off the turf onto the perimeter strip, make your turn, and re-enter — do not pivot on the standing turf
• When mowing around trees, posts, or bed edges, approach at an angle to avoid spinning; trim anything the mower cannot reach cleanly
• If the deck clogs in wet grass, disengage the PTO, back up, and clear the chute before re-engaging — never reach under a running deck

Gravely Zero-Turn — Shutdown

A correct shutdown is as important as a correct start. Letting the Gravely cool down before shutting off protects the turbocharger and engine internals. Skipping this step degrades engine life over time.

• Disengage the PTO (blades off) and wait for the blade rotation to fully stop before approaching the discharge side
• Slow your ground speed to a crawl and come to a full stop
• Push both lap bars outward to the open/parked position
• Engage the parking brake fully
• Reduce the throttle to idle and let the engine idle for 30–60 seconds to cool down — do not shut off immediately from full throttle
• Move the choke to the fully open (run) position if it is not already there
• Turn the key to OFF and remove it
• Confirm the blades have completely stopped spinning before stepping off or reaching near the deck